Highland Park & Martyrs' Lane

Şəhidlər Xiyabanı — Martyrs' Lane — is the memorial to those killed when Soviet troops entered Baku on the night of 19–20 January 1990, an event known as Black January. Around 130 people died.

The site also holds graves from the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict. An eternal flame burns at the far end, and rows of black granite headstones carry the photographs of the dead — many of them very young.

This is an active place of mourning; families visit. Dress respectfully, keep your voice down, and do not photograph mourners. It is not a backdrop.

Past the memorial the terrace opens onto the panorama. On a clear day you can see the sweep of the bay, the Boulevard below, the Old City walls, and the port.

It is the best orientation point in Baku and the reason this is a fixed stop on our city tour. Late afternoon into dusk is the ideal window: the light on the bay is at its best and the Flame Towers begin their display as it darkens.

A short funicular runs from near the Boulevard up to the park, which is the usual way to arrive and a small pleasure in itself. It is inexpensive and takes only a few minutes.

It has been known to close for maintenance for extended periods. When it is out of service the walk up is steep but manageable, or your driver can take you to the top directly.